Journey to Coney Island
October 2025
"The beach was still a mess from last night’s Fourth of July fireworks—picnic trash everywhere. A few mini-excavators were clearing it up, like some bizarre mix of futurist installation and performance art. “After the revolution, who is going to pick up the garbage on Monday morning?”
By Yiwei Lu
@luyiweitina
Editor: Jiani Wang

PLACES
Fourth of July
This was the second Fourth of July I’ve celebrated in my seven years in the U.S. Summer is a
beautiful season, and shouldn’t be wasted in New York. If it weren’t for visa issues, I would’ve
booked a flight to Tokyo, taken the Shinkansen to Yokohama, listened to First Love while watching
the fireworks festival. Then, a two-hour flight home to hug my cat and watch the evening breeze
and sunset over the Qinhuai River.
Instead, I was at my friend’s place in FiDi, trying geda tang (northern-style flour drop soup) for the
first time. The importance of U.S. Independence Day doesn’t quite merit making dumplings. The
three of us, bored out of our minds, sat on the couch asking ChatGPT for game suggestions. It
recommended “Truth or Dare,” with sample questions like “Who here is most likely to have a crush
on an American?” and a hot dog eating contest.
So instead we decided to listen to songs from the era of economic optimism—Call Me Maybe, I
Don’t Like Your Girlfriend, TikTok—and of course the Independence Day classic, Firework. We
realized that when we were kids, we really thought America was exactly like those music videos.
Reality, however, is not the same as those time-stamped fantasies—eventually “do you even feel
like a plastic bag.”
After three hours, it was finally time for fireworks. We crowded by the window. Down below:
endless streams of cars and flashing NYPD lights. Growing up in China, where we had firecrackers,
fireworks, even cannon fireworks, this felt more ceremonial than thrilling. Fireworks were being set
off from boats on the East River. Inside the apartment, we played Japanese songs—打ち上げ花⽕,
踊り⼦—pretending we weren’t stuck here, pretending we were in a Tokyo Bay high-rise watching
the Kōtō Fireworks Festival. Also, summer is too hot to trick your brain into thinking it’s Chinese
New Year’s. And we were too tired to make it to another friend’s house party in Bushwick.
After the fireworks, my roommate and I rushed to catch the subway home to avoid Uber surge
pricing, making it back before midnight. Overdosed on carbs from dinner, we were sleepy like little
kids on New Year’s Eve who can’t stay awake for the countdown.


Fifth of July
Our White House tour group received an email: due to the state funeral of Jimmy Carter scheduled for January 9th, our tour had been rescheduled to January 8th. Fortunately, thanks to my friend's foresight in booking flexible Amtrak tickets, we only dodged a $10 rescheduling fee, a gift imposed by the U.S. government.
I lost sleep. Tossing and turning, bored out of my mind. The only thing I was sure of was that my
insomnia had nothing to do with the fireworks.
At 3:30 a.m., I suddenly got a DM on Instagram:
“Couldn’t sleep either?”
“It’s hopeless, why can’t I fall asleep?”
The message was from Yiran, a friend I had met two months earlier on the subway. Back then, I had
rushed to a Q&A screening of Jia Zhangke’s Caught by the Tides (风流⼀代), despite everyone
warning me it was terrible. On the subway home, I was complaining to a friend, and Yiran, equally
restless, joined our conversation. We exchanged contacts just as the subway doors were closing.
Tonight, our insomnia had “no unspeakable reasons.” I sent her a screenshot from Google Maps,
showing how to get from Long Island City to Coney Island. I rarely go there - maybe once a year.
Amid the chaos of New York, Coney Island feels likea strange relic: it once had Luna Park, and one
of its attractions was literally an incubator display for premature babies. In Robot Dreams, The
robot and the puppy also lost themselves on this beach.
Last year, I came here in the pouring rain, pushing a wheeled model of the Empire State Building,
eating hot dogs, and watching the sea. Sadly, you can’t take a two-meter-tall sculpture on a roller
coaster—no seat belts are big enough. The last time the Empire State Building suffered such a
misadventure was when it encountered King Kong and Naomi Watts. My Empire State Building
just got drenched in the rain with my friends and me.

Yiran and I hit it off immediately. We decided to go watch the sunrise—right now. She got up and
came to my place; I got up to charge the speaker and make a one-liter espresso martini. Out of
vodka, I used tequila instead—an incredibly energizing homemade drink, worthy of being sold at
Whole Foods.
By 4:10 a.m., we had met downstairs. I poured the martini from a washed-out coconut water carton
into a branded cup from her firm, and we ran to catch the subway. Sitting on the train felt exactly
like the first time we’d met.
We passed the bottle back and forth, talking about her situationship - straight out of Wong Kar-
wai’s In the Mood for Love - and about how I once drank until 5 a.m. in my new apartment and
realized the view outside looked like suburban Moscow. Honestly, I hadn’t expected so many
people on the subway at midnight, so it wasn’t until the train entered and then left Manhattan that
we felt brave enough to take out the speaker—finally merging into New York’s chaotic subway
atmosphere. We huddled over my phone camera like we were in a karaoke booth, singing sad
Mandarin love songs. A guy sitting nearby clapped for us and asked what we were singing. Before
he got off, he called out “Keep going!” (or maybe he thought we were terrible singers and just
decided to wait for a quieter train).
The idea of going to Coney Island for the sunrise had been fermenting in my mind for five years.
Strictly speaking, it’s a crazy plan—not the kind that you prepare by setting an alarm for 3:30 a.m,
going to bed early, and leaving refreshed; not like going to a nightclub, where you buy your ticket
online, nap in the afternoon, pre-drink at 11 p.m, eat a chicken sandwich at 1 a.m, then line up at the
door, get your arm stamped, and have your phone camera covered with a black sticker. This plan
needs a moment, an epiphany, a subtle alignment of time, place, and people. You don’t know when
it’ll happen, but now is the perfect time.
The closest I’d come before was in March 2020, the week before COVID hit New York, when a
friend—who would become my roommate two years later—and I drank limoncello until 4 a.m, then
suddenly threw on coats and went to the bus stop. We froze in the wind for twenty minutes, hid in
the waiting room at Waterside Plaza, and twenty minutes later, thirsty, went back upstairs. We slept
until 2 p.m. then had hangover soup and an ice-cold 7-Eleven Slurpee in K-Town.
Today the timing is perfect.


The Q train bursts above ground after downtown Brooklyn, racing forward. The black sky starts to
blur into pink clouds. Too bad Chappell Roan’s Subway hadn’t been released yet—we listened to
Pink Pony Club instead. I leaned against the door, taking sunrise pictures, while Yiran used the
handrail for pull-ups, showing off her climbing skills. Despite having a bachelor’s degree in Photo
and Video, all I managed to capture were split-second frames of her getting on and off the pole—
never the full motion.Maybe the train was too fast, or maybe the dawn was changing too quickly;
the yellow carriage felt like a yellow submarine sailing through a sky turning blue.
The Ferris wheel at Luna Park flashed past. By the time we arrived, It was hard to say whether we
can still catch the most beautiful moment of sunrise because we had already missed it. But it didn’t
matter—we were still laughing as we ran along the platform, beneath stained-glass windows, like
Zhang Huaimin’s line: “When is there no moon? Where is there no bamboo or cypress? There are
just few idle people like us.”To put it simply: we were already here, so why not.
The beach was still a mess from last night’s Fourth of July fireworks—picnic trash everywhere. A
few mini-excavators were clearing it up, like some bizarre mix of futurist installation and
performance art. “After the revolution, who is going to pick up the garbage on Monday morning?”
We sat on Yiran’s jacket, using it as a picnic blanket, and watched the waves roll in. Dozens of
seagulls darted back and forth with the tide, like predators, yet completely unfazed by the chaos
around them. I couldn’t help but admire their calm. Right then, I decided seagulls would be my new
spirit animal—after all, we both love to go to grab fries on the pier.
We tried imitating them, chasing the waves to feel the morning water splash against our calves. In
the golden light, the scene turned cinematic—like a frame from a “widow’s memoir.” Once upon a
time, when my wife was still alive, she was radiant, laughing as she rolled up her pants to splash
through the surf, running with the tide. The sun lit her hair with a golden halo, like an unnamed
saint drifting at sea. The white foam at the water’s edge looked like an unbreakable boundary,
keeping her inside.


Then, out of nowhere, a bald head popped out of the water—a man doing his morning workout. At
the same time, another strange guy walked up and politely asked, “Can you watch my stuff for a
bit?” We said sure. He then stripped down to just his shorts and dove straight in.
By the time we realized what was happening, both half-naked men were in front of us, joking about
which one was “our friend.” From their banter, we learned the first guy swims here every day, and
the second’s family had emigrated from Russia. Didn’t really matter, but… good to know. Before
they could start showing off any more, we grabbed our things and left.

Later, we saw two sanitation guys driving loaders, emptying dozens of porta-potties. They
cheerfully wished us good morning, and one made a point of telling us he had an Asian fetish. But
honestly, considering they were cleaning portable toilets at 7 a.m on a holiday, it was hard to even
be offended.
On the subway way back, we were much quieter. It was a calm that came with a kind of satisfying
exhaustion. At each stop, more commuters heading to work got on. The dreamlike carriage slowly
came back down to earth, returning to the rhythm of the tracks.
The first time I ever went to Coney Island was at age of seventeen. It was my first time in the New
York alone, for a summer photography program held by an art school. On the Thursday of the final
week, our “field trip” was to Coney Island. It was just taking our group of kids around different
parts of New York, but standingon that beach and watching the constant flow of people, for the first
time, I felt a wave of fear about the future overwhelmed me. I knew nothing about my future, but I
vaguely sensed I wanted part of myself to be shaped by this place—while, in a childlike way,
fearing it might reject me. The tears I left there were a kind of comfort, for the self in the past and
future.My life now isn’t all that different from the me who cried on the way back at seventeen. Life
never leaves anyone off the hook—but that’s not necessarily a bad thing.

When we got off the subway, the sunlight was unusually bright. I asked Yiran, “Is this the same sun
we just saw at the beach? It feels so different. I don’t like it.” She said, “Yeah, you just don’t like it
when it gets too warm.” At 9 a.m., the sun made my avoidant attachment kick in.
Back home, I took a quick shower, changed into pajamas, and opened my laptop. On a video call
with the other two editors of iidrr mag, we started our weekly meeting to discuss the next issue. I
said, “I want to write about the little adventure I just had.”
Here it is.



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